With the Director of Assocalzaturifici, Tommaso Cancellara, we examine the situation of the footwear industry and prospects opened by many initiatives planned by the Association.

After the first half-year as Director of Assocalzaturifici, Tommaso Cancellara, has clear ideas on the situation of the sector and the actions necessary to support it. Off the cuff, what is your opinion of the industry? «It is a very interesting industry. The shoe product is typically Italian. Italy has about a dozen or so excellences, among which Italian Shoes. While travelling around the country to visit companies and manufacturers, I came to the realisation that technology and craftsmanship merge in a unique way in footwear companies. This incredible combination allows obtaining a unique product, of the highest standard.» In what state of health did you find the sector? «The Confindustria statistics highlight a slow and gradual improvement in the economy as a whole.

Encouraging signs are coming from the upstream sectors: the leather market seems to be picking up, so we hope that the trend moves to production and, therefore, reaches the consumer. Our figures are also quite encouraging. We are not a steam engine like Germany, we do not represent the US recovery and the Italian market is still in difficulty, but exports (in some cases up to 80%) and therefore international markets are bringing great satisfaction.» How do you plan to combat the “Made In” battle? «Europe is currently going through an historical paradox: it is the only region in the world that does not provide mandatory labelling. We must realise that the USA has had a law to that effect since the 1900s and China, which we want to fight, already applies mandatory labelling?!

Our lobby in the European Parliament is always active on this point, but we are also pushing the issue of Reshoring. Bringing production back to Europe means creating jobs. We want to see who has the courage to not support this initiative. The conditions need to be created to promote Reshoring so that companies are encouraged to return. Taxation is certainly the point on which to intervene and, even if taxation policies are decided by individual countries, Brussels dictates the line… so that is where we are trying to act.»

What will be the contents of September’s International Footwear Forum in Milan? «We need Europe, and to ensure that continental footwear production is strong and has weight in the world, we need the various trade associations to meet and discuss the services they offer members. It will not look at every aspect of the footwear industry, that’s what the World Footwear Congress is for.»

How will the collaboration between theMICAM and MIPEL develop? «I really like the word collaboration. There will be synergy between MIPEL, an historical and important event representing another Italian excellence, and theMICAM. The leathergoods fair was in an unfavourable location (the upper pavilions of FieraMilano), so we decided to offer them pavilion 10 to obtain better accessibility and therefore visibility. In this way, we will be able to take advantage of the motive force offered by each fair. theMICAM is not downsizing, but optimises the spaces available to it in other pavilions, bringing some promotional activities back to Viale Italia. It is a way to streamline the use by visitors, making it quicker and more effective. More consistent for current buyers who do not only buy footwear, but also look for other fashion accessories. Together we believe we can grow even stronger. The idea is part of a business philosophy in which I truly believe and apply in my work: team results are always better than individual results. Working together is still and will always be a winning strategy.»

Synergistically speaking, Assocalzaturifici has asked the entire fashion industry to come together to develop a strategy of dates that favours the Italian system. What feedback did you get? «There have been different reactions, very strong and very positive. FIAMP is in favour. National and local policies have already held meetings to discuss it. We hope the step from saying to doing is quick and easy. Other fashion cities have surpassed Milan in these years, but Milan has something the others don’t have: the fairs. theMicam, Mipel, Mifur, Mido, Lineapelle… can be the winning cards to get back on top. We would be happy to define together with the National Fashion Chamber the dates in which to position ourselves (before or after the fashion shows) provided that definite dates are set for at least the next three years.»

theMICAM abroad. Judgment? «We offer about 28 fairs a year. Those that are less successful are penalised by the economic situation. The OBUV (Russia) is currently having some difficulties (not very big) due to the well-known political situation. However, the dust has settled a bit and sanctions may be eased (as we have strongly advocated), so it is possible that the Russian consumer starts spending again. As for the Shanghai fair, we will continue to strengthen, in the context of Italian synergies, the relationship with EMI and SMI. For the first time, the Italian fashion system is working hard on a market that is both promising and complex and we want to continue down this path. After entering the wider platform of “Chic”, the largest fashion event in China, from the next appointment scheduled for 13 – 15 October, a change of strategy is planned that will promote the presence of collectives of Italian footwear companies within the event. The Chinese footwear market is still lukewarm for our members because it is still closely linked to big brands, while multi-brand distribution has yet to take off. However, it is important to invest in China because “one drop after another opens the rock” (a Chinese proverb) and when the market picks up those who were there since the beginning will draw advantages. Tokyo and Monaco are doing very well, orders are made in these fairs. The sore point is the United States, because it is not easy to enter the most difficult, highly structured market in the world, where distribution channels are saturated. Besides, it is a market that cannot be ignored, especially now that the dollar is almost equal to the euro. To enter, however, we need to offer something excellent and perfect. We are studying on how to do this, but we are still not ready. We should be by 2016».