Pitti Uomo 92: creative energy and good businessFlorence, from 13th to 16th June
Once again, big international and Italian buyers have elected Pitti Immagine Uomo as a global reference point for lifestyle and quality scouting, with the presence of the most important department and specialty stores, specialist boutiques, high level chains and the high quality e-commerce companies that have the widest distribution. This is why, among the stands, in the corridors and at social gatherings, there was a very positive atmosphere, a great appreciation for the trade show and confidence in the consolidation of the recovery.
The most interesting fashion and product novelties, coming from the best Italian and international companies that carry out style and materials research and innovation, the liveliness of layouts and presentations, international partnerships (see the Guest Nation Australia, Japan Fashion Week, and Liberty projects), and special events (the exhibition at Palazzo Pitti, the JW Anderson and Off-White fashion shows, the consecration of the Italian designers Curradi and Alanui), did the rest.
In quantitative terms, the final turnout data recorded 19,400 buyers: foreign attendance turned out to be at the same levels as last June – with about 8,400 international buyers arrived in Florence – Italy dropped by 9%: the total number of visitors greatly exceeded 30,000.
With regard to the data for Italy – commented Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine – the huge transport strike had a big effect. With regard to foreign attendance, we should highlight the positive results for Japan (+4%), Spain (+2%), The Netherlands (+3%), United States (+6%), South Korea (+5%), Russia (+10%), Northern and Eastern Europe, Australia (+9,5%), and Canada (+13%), compared with the essential stability of France, Turkey and Netherlands and the slight drop in Chinese, British and German attendance. Remember Russia’s boom fifteen years ago and its subsequent decline: now the number of Russian buyers is on the rise again. China seems to follow a seesaw trend, possibly because the market economy is heavily centralized and, therefore, it only takes a few directives to abruptly change the behaviour of all the members of the trade. The USA has got through its electoral year and started buying again, in northern Europe there is a greater desire for (Italian) fashion. The United Kingdom is grappling with the post Brexit era, whilst with regard to Germany, the only regret is that internal consumption is still very far below its possibilities given the existing wealth. For Italy the swing effect has been more pronounced in these past few years but the fact worth noting is that attendance today is more or less the same as ten years ago.
Among the special spaces that recorded the highest approval among visitors, PS by Paul Smith, a contemporary line of the British designer, who chose a new location at Padiglione delle Ghiaia for this occasion, which became an artistic event. Bally, a Swiss accessory and clothing brand, relied on Pitti Uomo’s audience to propose a new sneaker collection, creating a special presentation at the Central Pavillion of the trade show, while Tretorn, a historic Scandinavian brand specialised in outerwear and footwear designed for cold climates, launched its new collection in the I-Play section. Superdry, the Anglo-Saxon über-lifestyle brand, reaffirmed its prominence by returning to Pitti Uomo with a crowded space inside Urban Panorama. At Pitti Uomo, Belstaff proposed the iconic collection “Origins”, based on a technology oriented towards movement and performance. Lanerossi, a historic brand of the Italian textile tradition, celebrated its 200 years of activity at Limonaia in Villa Vittoria, with an exhibition-event with a focus on the works of the greatest authors who have collaborated with the company since the 1930’s, from Adolfo Busi to Armando Testa up to Ugo Mulas.
The 93rd edition will take place from 9th to 12th January 2018.